Tambora

Wer ist denn dieser Tambora
Wir sind naiv. Wir dachten, fahren wir doch einfach mal nach Sumbawa und klettern auf den Tambora. Im Internet gibt es keine Infos, also wird es diese wohl vor Ort geben. Ähnlich, wie es für den Mt. Rinjani auf Lombok oder einen der anderen Vulkane in Indonesien funktioniert, derer es ja sehr viele gibt – mehr oder weniger auf jeder Insel mindestens einen.

Sumbawa ist anders. Wir kamen an, radelten 85 km zum ersten und einzigen Hotel in West-Sumbawa. Blick auf den Tambora. Ganzer Stolz aller Insulaner. Ja, man kann da rauf, wir kennen aber niemanden, der das organisiert, selber waren wir auch noch nie dort. Weiter Richtung Hu’u, einem kleinen Ort im Süden, wo es ein paar Unterkünfte für Surf-Enthusiasten gibt. Ein dort vor 26 Jahren hängen gebliebenener Franzose, der ein klein wenig durchgeknallt ist, will uns über einen Kumpel seines Mitarbeiters Kontakte vor Ort herstellen und uns auch die vier bis fünf Stunden dort hin fahren lassen (gegen Geld). Vor Ort sollen wir dann den Preis aushandeln, die Fahrräder können wir bei ihm lassen. Ein Plan. Allerdings ohne das Wetter. Vielmehr ohne die Vorstellungen des Franzosen vom Wetter der nächsten Tage. Am Morgen des Abfahrtstages weint der Himmel Krokodilstränen, er meint, das mache keinen Sinn und wir verschieben den Tambora vorerst und fahren als Ablenkung 95km bei später strahlendem Sonnenschein nach Bima.
Auch hier hat kein Mensch eine Idee wie wir das organisieren können. Nach längeren Recherchen finden wir doch noch eine super detaillierte Beschreibung zweier Polen. So etwas wie ein Plan reift. Wir lassen die Räder im Hotel in Bima und machen uns auf den Weg.

Getting there

In 7h geht es die 150km mit dem Bus nach Pancasila, einem kleinen Ort am Fuße des Tambora.

DSC00117Die Wetterlage bleibt weiterhin unklar. Ortskundige wünschen uns Glück, dass wir trocken bleiben. Angeblich werden alle dort oben nass und niemand sieht in der Regenzeit den Krater. Vor Ort gibt alles, was wir benötigen: Wir können in einem Guesthouse ein schönes Zimmer beziehen, organisieren für den nächsten Tag einen Porter/Guide, kaufen uns Kaffee und checken unsere Ausrüstung. Gespannt fallen wir ins Bett. Um 6:00 müssen wir aufstehen.

Unser persönlicher Sinai?
Und dann geht’s endlich los. Die ersten Meter werden wir auf Mopeds durch Kaffeeplantagen mitgenommen. Dann geht es 6h durch den Dschungel, immer langsam und gemächlich kommen wir nach 15km im Nachtlager auf 1600m an. Nach Stärkung mit mal wieder Reis und Instant Nudeln fallen wir früh in die Heia. Unter richtigen Bergsteigern gibt es ja den Ethos, irgendwann nachts loszulaufen, um so Dinge wie “Sonnenaufgang auf dem Gipfel” erleben zu können – Gut. Wenn es dazu gehört …

Um Mitternacht machen wir uns im Dunkeln auf den Weg. Der Aufstieg ist anstrengend, aber wir sind schnell, so dass wir sogar um 4:00 noch eine Stunde kurz vor dem Kraterrand frierend warten müssen, da es oben zu sehr windet. Bei bestem Wetter erreichen wir um 6:00 bei Sonnenaufgang den Kraterrand (2650m) und später den 2800m hohen Gipfel. Es ist extrem überwältigend hier oben zu stehen und sich die gewaltige Eruption vorzustellen.

DSC00069

Der Krater hat einen Durchmesser von 6km und ist 1,5km tief. Eine strahlende Sonne beschert einen unglaublichen Ausblick und wir schmunzeln über alle indonesischen Wetterfrösche.
Nun kommt der Abstieg. Angesetzt sind ca. 10h (2200m/17km) zurück ins Dorf. Wir und besonders unsere Knie sind tapfer und ziehen durch. Wir sollen später noch mehrere Tage Muskelkater haben und Treppen nur noch unter Schmerzen bewältigen. Erstaunlicherweise ist Radfahren hinterher sehr wohltuend.

Tambora, wir haben Dich bezwungen. Danke für das Abenteuer, für den Schweiß und das Glücksgefühl.

Zum Weiterlesen….

Dieses große Loch ist die Folge der größten Vulkaneruption in “historischer Zeit”. Die Explosion führte zu einer Klimaanomalie, welche in Europa aufgrund von Ernteausfällen zu Hungersnöten führte. Das Jahr 1816 ging als “Jahr ohne Sommer” in die Geschichte ein. Wer mehr zu diesen spannenden Thema lesen will, kann auf dem gut gemachten Portal tambora.org mehr darüber erfahren, wie unsere Vorfahren dieses Ereignis erlebt haben … 😉

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